Gordon and Millie chased the winter sun, leaving England to explore the Portuguese island of Madeira by bike in October. Read on to see how they fared discovering this fascinating region.
If you're a keen cyclist looking for a unique destination, Madeira might just surprise you. Known more for its dramatic walking trails and mountainous terrain than for cycling, this rugged Atlantic island offers a spectacular escape for those ready to take on a challenge. In fact, during our entire week, we saw only five bikes - including our two!
But don't let that deter you. With the rise of e-bikes, trips like these are not only possible, but genuinely enjoyable for a wide range of fitness levels. My wife, Millie, took an e-bike for the first time and breezed through the week, while I, stubbornly sticking to a regular bike, found it tough but rewarding.
Why Cycle Madeira?
Most visitors explore Madeira by car to take in the full variety of the island, but cycling gives you a deeper, more immersive experience. While cars use the network of tunnels to quickly navigate from one side to the other, our scenic route formed a loop around much of the island, offering coastal views by night and mountainous adventures by day. Despite the challenging terrain, we were rewarded with unforgettable vistas, peaceful roads, and a unique sense of accomplishment.
The Tour
We booked the "Madeira Cycle" , a self-guided 8 day trip. The tour included both "standard" and "charm" accommodations, allowing us to sample both experiences.
The weather in late October was ideal for cycling, with temperatures ranging from 20-25°C and cooler evenings. While one day brought heavy rain and forced us to skip the final ride, the rest of the week was a pleasant mix of cloud cover and sunshine.
Getting There
Madeira is easily accessible from the UK, with flights into Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport (yes, there's a statue of him there too!). The airport is small and easy to navigate, though the landing is famously tricky for pilots. A local taxi or a Bolt ride will get you to your starting point for about €25.
Accommodation
Accommodation on this tour ranges from functional and comfortable 3-star hotels to elegant 5-star resorts. Standard hotels offered good locations and coastal views, while the upgraded “charm” accommodations featured boutique-style decor, luxury amenities, and extras like infinity pools or lush gardens. The charm upgrade, for a modest additional fee, added a special touch to the overall experience and felt well worth the investment.
The Bikes
We were provided sturdy steel bikes with 27 gears. The e-bike, with a step-through design, handled the hills effortlessly and had enough battery for even the longest rides. Each bike came equipped with panniers, handlebar bags, and a toolkit.
Navigation
We used their navigation app, which was intuitive and included all route details. We were semi-supported, with helpful staff providing transfers on major climbs and reliable luggage transport.
Highlights of our Madeira Cycle
Each day brought a new side of Madeira, from cloud-wreathed peaks to peaceful coastal towns. We kicked things off with a gentle warm-up, starting from Camacha and rolling into the charming seaside village of Porto da Cruz — a descent that offered both stunning views and a taste of the island's ever-changing terrain.
From there, the ride from Santana to São Vicente took us into the island’s lush, subtropical north coast. Though challenging, the blend of coastal panoramas and sleepy hillside towns made every pedal stroke worth it. The following day offered a change of scenery with a plateau loop out of Porto Moniz. At times, it felt like we were riding through the Scottish Highlands, complete with misty hills and grazing cows — not what you'd expect from a subtropical island!
Day five was the real test: an epic ride from Porto Moniz to Calheta, climbing over 1,200 meters with sweeping switchbacks and quiet country roads. It was tough, but incredibly rewarding. Sadly, the weather caught up with us on day six. Torrential rain and low visibility meant we had to skip the final leg to Funchal, but we made the most of our time exploring the city on foot, taking the cable car to Monte and soaking up the laid-back coastal vibe.
Final Thoughts
Madeira may not be a cycling hotspot yet, but it absolutely should be. If you love dramatic landscapes, rewarding climbs, and quiet roads, this trip delivers. Whether you're on an e-bike or sticking with a traditional ride, the self-guided Madeira Cycle Tour is an unforgettable way to explore one of the Atlantic's most captivating islands.
Madeira Active Tours